Touring The Gambia

When you think of a tropical destination getaway, I’m positive that The Gambia wouldn't even scratch a list of your top 20 choices. Let’s see if we can change that! This will be a bit of an ongoing post that I plan to update once I’ve had more experiences in-country, but I think that even this initial blog will get you thinking differently. And as always, this is your standing invitation to come visit!

There are great sunsets, peaceful naps, and chimp-sightings to be had!

Kombo (the capital region)

Banjul, Serekunda, and the surrounding area is generally referred to as Kombo by locals, and it's commonly thought of as the place of opportunity, leisure, status, and comfort (certainly, us Volunteers think that). While much of Kombo looks like any other crowded spot in The Gambia—storefronts with painted depictions of what’s being sold alongside (incorrectly spelled) English phrases, throngs of colorfully dressed people passing up and down, and lots of livestock, vehicles, sounds, and people mixed together­—toward the coast, it gets substantially more Westernized. In particular, must visits include the Senegambia Strip and The Village next door, Fajara and some of the specialized shops and restaurants there, and the beach bounded by Kasumai resort in the south and Leybato’s hotel in the north.

Senegambia Strip / The Village

If you’re in-country on vacation, chances are, you’ll be booking your hotel in this vicinity. Kololi Hotel is a safe bet for comfort, quietude, convenience, and cost (even on a Peace Corps budget). Kasumai and Coco Ocean to the south are also great choices, although Coco Ocean has nightly rates roughly equivalent to (nice) hotels in the US or Europe, and both are further out from the more exciting parts of the region. Note: the best veggie burger in all of Gambia, and potentially much of the world, is at Kasumai hotel.

On the Strip itself, you can find all manner of solid restaurants catering to your choices, including Indian (Mango), Italian (Gusto’s), Mexican (El Sol), and other, more generalized options. There are nightclubs (one being Aquarius) and other fun spots to check out. Several ATMs are in the area and the convenience stores are well-stocked with liquor, including such favorites as Leffe’s beer.

Outside of the Strip, you can find even more options, especially in The Village, including a Peace Corps favorite: Cassy’s Café. There, you will find smoothies and smoothie bowls, good coffee, and other delicious entrees. That said, they are almost always out of stock of one thing or another, so don’t think you’ll get exactly what you want. Another favorite is a bar/restaurant across the road and just to the south of the Senegambia junction run by a Swedish man named Simon, a delightful character who provides delicious food and a wonderful atmosphere.

Within the same area, you can also find fun day-time activities, including at the Monkey Park, where you can feed monkeys bananas or peanuts while they perch on your shoulder (or aggressively solicit more food – goes both ways) and the Craft Market, where you can get the quintessential Gambian experience for toubabs with lots of craftsmen and women yelling at you to come buy their (exceptionally well-made) wares. A bit to the south, you can rent kayaks and go on a small estuary tour, seeing colorful and unique Gambian birds, vibrant and lush mangroves, and interesting geological sedimentation.

Monkeys, PCVs (not that dissimilar from monkeys), and a view from Kololi.

Fajara

Meanwhile, if you travel north from the Strip, you’ll reach “traffic light” junction (no traffic light exists, although it functions reasonably smoothly without). To the east is the main stretch of Kairaba Avenue, where you can find the US Embassy, the Peace Corps Office, and many shops catering to a more affluent demographic (including a Staples!). To the west is Fajara. Within Fajara, highly recommended destinations include Timbooktu, The Gambia’s only bookstore, which has a great selection that's especially of relevance to someone living and working within the country, and The Butcher’s Shop, which has a vast menu and fantastic coffee. It also carries the best cakes to be found in-country. In addition, try Yosh’s, an eclectic restaurant that has you dining as if at the Rainforest Café and which serves solid Eastern dishes.

Beaches in Fajara at sunset.

Up-Country

While Kombo gets most of the love from tourists, there are still many experiences to be had up-country, especially for those looking to get a life-changing perspective shift on how people live and work in other parts of the world. While public transportation is a bit unreliable and risky, us Volunteers use it daily/weekly, and I can assure you, it’s definitely not rocket science. Chances are, if you don’t speak a local language and don’t engage with the culture of bargaining, you’ll be overcharged for whatever option you take, but it will still be cheap compared to Ubers or taxis back home. That said, you can also test out your road skills and rent a personal vehicle. Just be sure to spend sufficient money to secure a good one­—the general stock will overheat and leave you stranded on the roadside, most likely somewhere inconvenient.

So, you decided on public transportation or you’ve rented a vehicle. Now what? Of all places up-country, I’d recommend heading to either or both Wassu and Janjanbureh. Along the way, you’ll pass through Soma and/or Farafenni, giving you the experience of a more authentic Gambian “city”. I don’t recommend staying overnight in either spot, but take a walk through the markets. They're worth a look!

Wassu

In Wassu, there are two must-dos: see the Stone Circles and rent a boat tour of the River Gambia National Park. The Stone Circles are megalithic structures (perhaps slightly more disappointing than Stonehenge, but still awesome), marking grave sites from long ago. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage site and has a pretty decent and cheap, albeit short, tour. The boat tour, meanwhile, will take you out of next door Kuntaur upriver to the National Park there. Along the way, you’ll see an immensity of birds, particularly wading birds at Bird Island, and likely some hippos and chimpanzees. If you’re really lucky, you might catch some snakes or baboons. You’re even free to bring a few beers for the ride!

While in Wassu, you should absolutely stay at The Reliable Guest House. The host of the place, Sulayman, speaks great English and is kind, responsive, ambitious, and committed. He’ll help you arrange the boat tour and get you there in the first place. If you choose to go based on this blog post, chances are, he’ll have a pool ready for you when you do.

Stone circles! River Gambia boat tour! Bird Island!

Janjanbureh (JJB)

JJB is another great spot to check out, being a quiet, riverside town with decent restaurants and lodging facilities. It does not have the hustle and bustle of many of the nearby populated towns, including Wassu, but still has markets to check out. In addition, there is a museum on the slave trade and some other interesting historical sites. Bendula’s is the restaurant of choice for Volunteers, although there is another spot right on the river that offers food and drinks with a better view. The Annex Guest House is the place to stay, although it only has three rooms to rent at the time of writing. Other hotels exist should it be filled up.

Other Spots

Across The Gambia, including in the spots mentioned above, there are way more interesting things to see and do! Often, I’ll find myself wandering down a side street and stumble across a unique restaurant or a store selling specialized items that can’t be found anywhere else. If you’re not the adventurous type, definitely ask for recommendations from those of us who have lived in The Gambia for some time. If you are, then by all means, get out there and see what you can find! And if you like it, try putting it on Google to make it easier for the next person to do the same 😉

Fo waati do (until another time)!